Be alert, some scammers initiate contact via mobile phone. Current warnings exist for the following internet scammers:-

Protect yourself from fraudulent internet activity

The following link to the Scamwatch website provides a useful resource for safely conducting online transactions:- http://www.scamwatch.gov.au/content/index.phtml/tag/OnlineScams

 Horseguide advises users to be aware of fraudulent operators on the internet. A common characteristic of someone conducting fraudulent activity is their immediate offer of financial gain. Their emails are often written in poorly constructed sentences.

These emails generally originate from overseas, including African, Asian and European nations. The individual may try to pursue your bank account details, of which we advise you to be very cautious.


Scammers who use Paypal or International Money Transfers


These scammers typically try to pay for a purchase via paypal, or will try other tactics using paypal to launder money from you. Often the link they provide you to paypal is not a genuine link, please be sure to check all URL's before clicking on them. These people can contact you via email or text you via mobile phone. Horseguide recommends that you do not conduct a transaction with anyone offering to use Paypal, unless you are confident that the person you are dealing with is genuine and authentic. Do not provide any personal information to anyone who offers to pay via paypal.

This includes bank account details, address and phone numbers or clicking on unverified links they email you. To protect your privacy, do not include your email address in your advert description. People can safely email you via the query form on your advert without you requiring to provide your email address.

To sum up, if something sounds to good to be true, then it is. Should you believe you have received a suspicious email, please avoid further contact with the individual and alert horseguide and/or relevant authorities. Further information can be found at ScamWatch.

An example is included below of  typical email from a scammer:-

'HELLO, I SAW YOUR HORSE AND I WAS TEMPTED TO MAKE INQUIRIES ON IT. PLEASE I WILL LIKE TO KNOW YOUR LAST OFFER, AND WHAT WILL IT COST FOR THE SHIPMENT DOWN HERE IN MALAYSIA? I WANT TO BUY THIS BREED FOR MY ONLY DAUGHTER AS A SPECIAL GIFT FOR HER WEDDING. PLEASE GET BACK TO ME AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. REGARDS'
You may contact me via email at damonvictor2010@yahoo.com

Thanks,
damon victor


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Below is an example of a typical text from a scammer. 
"I want to know if your horse on horseguide is still up for sale, plz email me on kristen.jones240@gmail.com ".

This person then tries to launder money by requesting Paypal on the next phone text or email.


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Buying a Horse sight-unseen
 
Worth the risk? Horseguide recommends that all buyers refrain from buying a horse 'sight unseen'. An independent vet-check should be considerered as mandatory for any horse being purchased this way. What you see in photos is not what you always get. Unfortunately, some people conduct misleading activities by selling horses sight unseen that differ substantially from the original photos. Avoid this scenario through common sense!


 

Every Horseperson Should Read This Book

I recently attended a dressage clinic given by an international classical dressage master and 3 of the 8 so-called accomplished riders should have read this book first! This book is simply the best, most concise, clearly presented treatise on dealing with the innumerable terrifying possibilities every rider faces at some time in their riding careers. It encourages a pro-active approach to de-spooking horses before they know the multitude of things there are in the world to spook at -- like crossing water, whizzing bikes, too-friendly mothers wheeling baby carriages, waving baloons, flags and plastic bags, flapping tarps, barking, charging dogs, etc, etc, etc.

To the uninitiated horse, most events outside of their stable yard are terrifying. It is the riders' responsibility to expose their horses to these terrors before disaster strikes so as to have a pleasurable, meaningful relationship with their horses. Too many people wait til they're dumped on their butt or even seriously injured to start this training and then the response is often abusive -- beating their horses for being afraid, which of course only makes them more afraid. I really appreciate the author's measured, systematic approach to the process of bombproofing. He emphasizes that first, the rider must have a secure seat and good, general riding abilities to cope with a fearful horse. Then he lays out many clear, descriptive exercises for bombproofing, both from the ground and under saddle. His approach is always sympathetic to both the rider and the horse; the book is sprinkled with humor and personal anecdotes and great, fun ideas for a "communal
bombproofing day".

Every horseperson should read this book!
By A Customer

View this book in the Horseguide Bookstore

About the Author

Sgt. Rick Pelicano is accredited by the American Riding Instructor Certification Program; in 1995, he was named Instructor of the Year. He lives in Frederick, Maryland.

24 of 24 people found the following review helpful.

Excellent Book
By Sadyll Chic
This book is excellent for anyone who has ever wanted to know how to teach their horse, and themselves, to be safe in almost any situation, from riding on the trail to approaching bikes, convertables, and walking on unstable surfaces.

Use the power of the "herd" for less confident horses. Find out if you and your horse are equally matched or whether you've bitten off more than you can chew.Rick's expertise in horse training for park and police horses gives him a unique perspective on the "horse eating monsters" that could be hiding behind that bike reflector. ;)My husband and I have put some of Rick's advice to the test with our 8 year old gelding who is being trained as a civil war re-enactment mount. Definitely worth the small amount of money.

View this book in the Horseguide Bookstore

The Horse Lover's Bible: The Complete Practical Guide to Horse Care and Management

Comprehensive and up-to-date reference on the care and management of a horse.

 In The Horse Lover's Bible, Tamsin Pickeral takes a unique approach: she provides insight into the reasons why horses behave the way they do. Following her good counsel, riders can develop rapport with their animals.

The book's straightforward layout guides the reader from assessing and purchasing a horse, to maintaining its well-being and ensuring its fitness, to preparing for competitions -- and much more. Checklist summaries appear at the end of each section. Step-by-step photographs and quick-reference boxes complement the comprehensive text.

Some of the topics covered include:
•Assessing conformation, temperament, ability and breed characteristics
•Evaluating equipment and tack for both English and Western riding
•Analyzing horse behavior and natural instincts
•Stable design, field maintenance, and nutrition
•Buying, stabling, exercising, grooming, training and showing
•Shoeing, tacking, traveling and breeding
•Step-by-step clipping, trimming, plaiting, show turnout and quarter marking
•Common ailments, and traditional and alternative therapies
•Preventive health routines in a handy year-round plan
•First-aid and emergency procedures.

The Horse Lover's Bible is a thorough and outstanding handbook for any rider.

View this book in the Horseguide Bookstore

About the Author
Tamsin Pickeral is an accomplished horsewoman who spent nine years in the United States, where she raised and produced horses for English and Western disciplines and worked for the Buffalo Veterinary Hospital. The author of The Encyclopedia of Horses and Ponies, she lives in England.

Written by Antoinette Foster ©2010

Try to spend 15 minutes per day just observing your horse and do this for around 2-3 months. In this time you will learn a great deal about your horse’s habits, body language and reactions. Keeping a notebook and jotting down interesting facts about your horse, changes in temperament, level of happiness any different behavior. Just remember that horses are creatures of habit, which is why repetitive exercises are how we teach and train our horses. However, bad habits can be taught also. Horses are also creatures of flight and we are now learning more about how a horse sees the world around them, particularly when working in collection. So allowing for all of this, if we as horse owners can understand our horses more fully then chances are we will notice very quickly if even the slightest thing is wrong.

Reaching into our horse’s mind may sound a little farfetched but that is exactly what we need to do. There are many times when this connection is already made, for example, your horse suddenly deciding to change from trot to canter at the precise moment that you are thinking of asking for canter, bingo connection to his mind is made.

Relating yourself to your horse

What happens when you wake up in the morning on the wrong side of the bed and you are not feeling very well and perhaps have a headache? Don’t forget that your horse can have bad days too and that he has to adapt just as you do. He may not be working the way he normally does and this may be frustrating, but it may just be that he is also having a bad day and tomorrow will probably be much better. So remember every day cannot be a great one. I know myself that I can have days when everything is going so well and my horse is working like a superstar, but other days things don’t go so well, that is life.

How you behave around your horse

This can have an enormous bearing on your horse’s attitude, for those of you who have children, the way you are feeling or the way you behave around your children will almost always affect their behaviour. It is very similar to how your horse reacts to your behaviour. If you are nervous around your horse, chances are he will be nervous also. If you are angry around your horse chances are he will be irritated as well.

Your personality and your horses’ personality

It may sound strange, but is extremely important to have personalities that suit each other, after all this is a relationship of sorts and it can only work if you are compatible. During the last 20 years of being a practitioner I have come across many cases of completely miss matched owners and horses. Definitely headed for disaster, it must be right from day one, or it will not work. I do believe that horse owners must take a great deal of time in making the decision to buy a particular horse. I think it is also vital to have horses vet checked and in most cases blood and urine samples taken. If the horse is going to be a high level performance horse then x-rays of the joints would be recommended.

DOES YOUR SADDLE FIT YOUR HORSE CORRECTLY?

It is extremely important to make sure that your horse’s saddle fits correctly and this includes allowing for muscle development. For example, if you purchase a new horse he will no doubt change shape after a few months of work, this would be ideal time to have your saddle correctly fitted. Ill fitting saddles contribute to an increased level of back soreness and other muscle related problems. A horse must carry the rider and the saddle and balance the two on his fairly rigid spine and back, if there is soreness through a badly fitting saddle, other problems may arise. Behavioral problems could be one of these and this can be due to the horse putting up with discomfort to the point of no return. Other concerns relating to an ill fitting saddle is that the horse will be reluctant to go forward from the riders leg and seat and this will interfere with the training of the horse. So many times I have seen saddles that do not fit the horse or are placed in an incorrect position. It is of paramount importance to contact a professional reputable saddle fitter before going ahead and purchasing any saddle for your horse. I believe that is essential for your saddle fitter to also be a competent rider. Find out which saddle suits you as a rider and is the most suitable for your horse. The type of saddle will vary from one discipline to the next, but it is always possible to find a saddle that fits your horse extremely well.

For Further Information...
 
If you would like any assistance with feeding your horse, understanding genetics either for your self or your horse,or if you are experiencing any difficulties, such as balancing you feed ration, nervousness, weight loss, arthritis etc please contact Nutritional Therapist Antoinette Foster for free advice email enq @ hiform.com.au or phone 03 97981000.

This article was written by Jane Myers MSc. Jane is the author of several books on horse and property care including Horse Safe, Managing Horses on Small Properties and co-author of the new edition of Horse Sense, all published by CSIRO (www.publish.csiro.au). Her website is www.equiculture.com.au.

The previous article ‘to rug or not in summer’ discussed some of the pros and cons of rugging in summer and summarised by saying that you need to take several factors into consideration before deciding what to do. Some of the factors to take into consideration when deciding whether to rug your horse in winter include your local climate, your budget, the work the horse does, where the horse lives (in/out/both) and how much time you have available for checking the horse and grooming.

The unrugged horse
A horse will roll in the mud and dust and build up a protective layer of dirt and oil (secreted by the skin). The horse will thrive as long as it has enough feed (mainly fibre) to keep warm and good shelter to get out of wet cold weather. Problems occur however when you want to ride. The horse may be muddy/dusty/wet etc. Another problem is when the horse has a long winter coat and the weather is very cold. If you ride in the afternoon the horse will sweat and may not dry in time for when it gets chilly in the evening. The horse will therefore be cold and wet over night.

In a warm climate it is quite possible to work an unrugged horse. It is in a cold climate that conditions become more difficult. As long as you avoid getting the horse too sweaty you can manage. If you want to start working the horse for longer and harder periods then you may have to think about rugging.

Rugs and the weather
In cold weather good rugs can help the horse to maintain condition, as a cold horse will burn a lot of energy keeping warm. Cold driving rain is the worst kind of weather for horses and if the horse does not have adequate shelter from bad weather you will need to rug.

How many rugs
The coat of an unrugged horse stands up in cold weather to trap air and warm the horse. If you decide to rug you have to compensate for this mechanism as a rug will stop the hair from being able to do its job. In some circumstances a rugged horse is colder than an unrugged horse such as in the case of a badly fitting thin rug which will flatten the hair and reduce the movement of the horse without providing any real warmth.

The number of rugs needed obviously varies from state to state. Heavy canvas rugs can become a lot heavier when wet. More than one canvas rug at a time is not recommended for that reason. A better idea is to put lightweight doona type rugs under heavy canvas rugs if extra warmth is needed.

Checking a rugged horse
Horses that wear rugs must be checked more frequently than horses without rugs, especially if they are out in a paddock. Rugs can get caught and/or slip and become dangerous to the horse. Twice a day, morning and night is recommended. Horses that wear anything on the head need to be checked even more frequently due to the danger involved with hoods and neck rugs.

Rugs and injuries
Rugs can actually cause injuries to the horse. Common injuries caused by rugs include: -
• Pressure sores behind the withers, this can be due to the rug being too large in the neck, which results in the rug sitting behind the withers. Every time the horse lowers its head it pulls the rug into the withers.
• Pressure sores on the withers. Some high withered horses become sore from the sheer weight of the rugs.
• Pressure sores at the base of the neck where it joins the chest. When this happens to a horse it will be very reluctant to move. If it does move it may move in ‘fairy steps’ around the paddock. Some horses get sore in this area even with a well fitting rug. A padded bib is needed under the rug.
• Sores on the inside of the thigh form due to the rug slipping over to one side and the leg strap pulling up into the groin.
• Sores under the belly from cross over surcingles and a badly fitting hood. If the fasteners for the hood do not have enough ‘give’ the surcingles pull tight under the belly as the horse reaches down to graze.
• Horses can get caught up in fences and injure themselves by becoming hooked on a wire fence via their leg strap fasteners. Always clip them in toward the horse as this reduces the chance of this happening.
• If any fasteners break, the rug will usually slip and the horse can panic with a rug that is half on and half off. Panicking horses tend to injure them selves on fences as they attempt to get away from the rug.
• Hoods and neck rugs that slip can cause horrific injuries to a horse. Horses have been known to injure their eyes and even to drown in dams due to slipped hoods.

Leaking rugs
Remove and check underneath rugs regularly. If a rug is letting in water the horse can develop rain scald and other skin problems.

Care of rugs
Whenever rugs are removed, such as when the horse is being exercised, the rugs should be aired. Stable rugs need to be washed frequently as stabled horses have no choice but to lie in manure and urine. Washing heavy doona rugs can be a problem as they are usually too large for your own washing machine and public launderettes often ban horse rugs. Doona rugs can be hosed, scrubbed and hung out to dry when the weather is good.

A cotton rug under a doona rug acts like sheets on your bed. It is much easier to wash a cotton rug than a doona thus reducing the amount of times the doona needs to be washed. You will need two cotton rugs in this case so that you can keep changing and washing them. Some horses are sensitive to certain washing products. Baby products and wool wash are usually a good option with horse gear as they are gentle on the skin.

Heavy canvas rugs should be hosed and reproofed at the end of wet periods. Once or twice a year should be enough. Also, this is a good time to have any repairs done before storing them away for next year. Heavy canvas rugs should be hung when in storage rather than folded. Folding them can damage the fibres along the creases.

Always remember when taking a rug out of storage to give it a thorough check for spiders before putting it on the horse. With lined canvas rugs check between the lining and the canvas, as this is a favourite spot for spiders. Always wear gloves to do this to protect you.

Rugging a clipped horse
Horses in moderate to heavy work programs are often clipped. The horse must be rugged well to replace the coat. A soft warm doona rug usually works well under a canvas rug in this case. A cotton doona is better than nylon as it allows the skin to breath. Just a lined canvas on bare skin tends to rub the horse and is not usually warm enough if the weather is cold.

Cooling a horse down with rugs
If your horse is still sweaty after work and you need to leave him for the night a really good method of safely cooling him down is to put either hay or straw under the rug (try to ‘thatch’ it so that it stays for a while). The horse can then be left (either indoors or outdoors) and the hay or straw will absorb the moisture and help to keep the rugs dry and the horse comfortable. The hay or straw will fall out from under the rug during the night.

Stabled horses and rugs
The stabled horse is not necessarily warmer that the outdoor horse. It depends on the stables and how many other horses are in the same building. Lots of horses give off lots of heat. A stabled horse is forced to stand still which can mean the horse becomes cold. It is a good idea to check your horse periodically to see if it is warm enough late at night.

Types of rugs
Heavy canvas rugs, also called New Zealand rugs are suitable for horses kept outside during the winter months. These rugs are heavy duty and are often close to 100% waterproof if cared for properly. They must be well made to ensure best fit for the horse. It is not acceptable for the rug to be constantly hanging down one side of the horse. This type of rug is usually lined with either mixed fibres or pure wool. The latter is more expensive but warmer.

Synthetic outdoor rugs are alternatives to canvas New Zealand rugs and vary in quality. Basically you tend to get what you pay for with rugs. The advantage of synthetic is they weigh less and so are easier to put on large horses by small people. Their lighter weight is probably more comfortable for the horse as well. Many synthetic rugs now have a different cut to the neckline, which brings the rug about half way up the neck. This new cut reduces the pressure on the withers in comparison to a traditional style rug.

Quilted (doona) rugs are used for warmth and are usually made of nylon. However those made of cotton are considered better even though they are not as hardwearing. Cotton is much more comfortable in terms of heat regulation. The rugs can be used either on their own in the stable or under an unlined or lined canvas rug outdoors. Fleece rugs are lightweight warm and soft but are not particularly hardwearing. They usually cost less than doona type rugs however so this is another factor to consider.

This article was written by Jane Myers MSc. Jane is the author of several books on horse and property care including Horse Safe, Managing Horses on Small Properties and co-author of the new edition of Horse Sense, all published by CSIRO (www.publish.csiro.au). Her website is www.equiculture.com.au.

by Faith Meredith
Director, Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre
Longeing without stirrups can be a wonderfully useful tool to help riders learn to relax, ride in balance, and follow the motion of the horse as they work toward developing an independent seat.

Longeing allows the rider to concentrate on her seat without worrying about controlling the horse’s pace, direction or speed. With someone else handling the horse, longeing removes the fear factor. When the rider feels safe, it is easier to relax her muscles so that she can feel and follow the horse’s motion in balance.

The horse handler also provides the rider with an observer whose feedback can be enormously useful. The rider may feel she is balanced but the handler may note that she is leaning backward or forward rather than being positioned correctly over the horse’s center of gravity. The handler can remind the rider to breathe or provide other verbal cues to help the rider match the horse’s rhythm. The handler can help describe the movements of the horse’s feet so that the rider can begin to feel them for herself through her seatbones.

Longeing is a skill that must be mastered by both horse and handler before they can work safely as a team to help riders develop good seats. A longeing schoolmaster is a special horse. This horse must be in good condition and able to carry himself in balance on circles in either direction. He should have an excellent sense of rhythm and if the rider loses her balance, he should not get flustered or change his rhythm. The longeing schoolmaster is able to stay focused and relaxed regardless of anything else that might be going on in the vicinity. He is very aware of the handler’s body language and responds predictably and smoothly to her requests for up or down transitions.

The handler should be familiar with the horse and sure of her ability to communicate clearly with it before putting a rider up. She should know how to keep the horse moving forward in a steady rhythm and how to ask for smooth up or down transitions.

While some instructors like to use longeing cavessons, many people do not have them. A simple snaffle bridle is sufficient. Slip a halter over the bridle and fasten the longe line to the halter ring. We like to use side reins whenever we longe riders but if the horse is comfortable working on a circle they are not always necessary. It is better not to use side reins than to use them incorrectly. Boots or bandages protect the horse’s legs from accidental dings and provide tendon support when working on a circle. A riding helmet and gloves are standard safety equipment for both rider and handler.

To help the beginning rider, we fasten a “grab strap” to the dees on the front of the saddle. The rider can hold onto the strap until they develop good balance. A rider can also use these straps to pull her seat deeper into the saddle. This opens her hips and tips her pelvis up. Crossing the stirrups of an English saddle over the pommel also creates a grab strap of sorts. Pull the buckle down 5 or 6 inches away from the safety bar before crossing the leathers to eliminate awkward lumps under the rider’s thighs.

The longeing area should never be less than 20 meters in diameter. Anything less is too hard on the horse’s legs. Longe lessons should end before either horse or rider become too tired. A half of an hour is long enough. Change direction once, spending half the time in each direction. When changing direction, the horse should stop on the circle and the handler should approach it and reposition the longe before working in the second direction. A beginning or muscularly weak rider may need frequent walk breaks during a half hour lesson. With more advanced students, one way to get more out of a longe lesson is to let two students take turns as rider or handler while the instructor watches and teaches.

Beginning riders working on a longe should concentrate on relaxation, balance and finding the proper position in the saddle. They can first practice relaxing different groups of muscles, then relaxing all of their muscles. We do not ask beginning riders to hold their heels and toes in a riding position at first. A loose, relaxed ankle helps them move around and experiment with their position. The initial goal is to help them find a correct position with their body aligned from shoulders to hips to heels, shoulders back and open, head and neck straight, and thighs relaxed and flat against the saddle. They should not be gripping with their thighs and their lower leg should rest softly against the horse.

As riders progress, there are many balance exercises that can be added at the walk, then trot. Riders can dangle their legs or ride with legs held out away from the saddle. They can change their arm positions to challenge their balance—arms crossed in front, held on top of their head, stretched over their head, or held out to the sides as they twist in either direction. They can count the horse’s strides out load to help them develop a sense of rhythm.

Transitions from gait to gait are excellent exercises to use on the longe. As riders continue to progress, they can try to ask for up or down transitions before the handler intervenes. As their balance and muscle strength increase, they can graduate from a sitting trot to a posting trot without stirrups. The instructor/handler needs to be a good observer and choose exercises that will help individual riders work on their particular issues.

© 2001-2012 Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre. All rights reserved.
Faith Meredith has successfully trained and competed through FEI levels of dressage during her more than 30 years as a horse professional. She currently coaches riders in dressage, reining, and eventing in her capacity as the Director of Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre (147 Saddle Lane, Waverly, WV 26184; 800.679.2603; www.meredithmanor.edu), an ACCET accredited equestrian career college.

Friendships and bonds

Horses and ponies nearly always form really strong friendships and bonds. Horses they say, form bonds which are 10 times stronger than we humans do. Many form such strong friendships with other horses they become a problem for their owners. Horses often come to rely very heavily on those bonds and find it really stressful to leave or be separated from their friend even for a short time. When this happens if often means they are very anxious horses. Taking one of them out for a hack or to a show and leaving the other at home can be a really big problem for the owners and riders.

There are a number of reasons for this sort of anxiety. Those who have at some stage been left alone as youngsters may be fearful of what might happen and this stays with them for ever. Others have been separated from the herd (group they live with) and at that time suffered an experience which caused anxiety or fear.

It is now known and understood that many are weaned too quickly. They are separated from the mare and are not yet ready for a life on their own and that very strong and stressful anxiety stays with them for life. Now more people are putting youngsters out in groups together near their mares instead of just separating mares and foals at a few months.

Levels of Anxiety

There are of course different levels of anxiety caused by separation. It needs careful consideration to determine the level of anxiety your horse is suffering. Much thought has to be put into working out how long it will take you to gradually overcome the problem. Although you might have a timetable to work to you may well find that you have to change it as you go along.

Step by Step

As with everything in a horse or ponies life, it must be undertaken step by step. Each step must be overcome before moving on to the next - any one of those steps may take longer than another. You must make a plan and you will be the one who understands when each step has been accomplished satisfactorily. There is no rule of thumb as to how long it will take but you must look to finding a positive association for the horse/s with each tiny separation step you both take.

Horses learn by Association

Horses learn things by 'association'. The association is an instinct - the horse cannot help himself. Use your knowledge of this learning by 'association' process to help him with all your exercises from now on. He instinctively associates either pleasant or unpleasant happenings in his life with what is good or bad in his life. What you do to him results in what he does. You will pay for it one way or the other with good or bad reactions. You must therefore, use this instinct well.

You Pay

Remember these words - You - Pay - Association - Instinctive. It might help to remember it as a whole word like this: UPAI.

If something pleasant happens to your horse, he will associate whatever occurred just prior to that happening with something good. E.g. If you call him in a nice voice and then offer him his feed, he 'associates' the with the 'pleasant' and nice voice with feed which is something he enjoys.

If on the other hand something unpleasant happens (e.g. he were to get a reprimand from you or a perhaps have a wheelbarrow fall over with a crash right behind him) just before being tacked up, he will 'associate' that 'unpleasant' happening to being tacked up - he may well after this be a very nervous/apprehensive horse when being tacked up because he 'associates' the 'unpleasant' reprimand/loud noise with having his saddle or bridle put on. In other words, you pay for what you do or what has happened to your horse! If it was unpleasant you probably won't like his reactions. If it was pleasant you will be rewarded by his reactions.

How do you start?

A good plan is to start by feeding them a very small feed separately. As you walk him away from his friend towards his feed, providing he is not at this stage getting stressed and anxious, reward him with kind words and a pat. When you return him to his friend he will once more be back in his comfort zone, remember that he and his friend must be rewarded again with kind words and a pat.

Speaking to the horse is vital - use those kind words well and often as a reward. You must of course bring the small feeds out at the same time, but take one horse away to another area a little way away for its feed. This means that he will be associating that move away with something he enjoys - so you are providing a positive association. Maybe they might still have to be in view of each other.

Gradually though it could be out of site - it will depend on the extent of the anxiety. Initially they may still call, snatch at the food and get stressed, but eventually when they know the other horse is not leaving, (because it is always still there when they return from their food) they will become more settled. If it is still not accomplished - then feed half the feed away from the other horse and the other half back in the stable.

Increasing the feeds/length of time

Gradually you can increase the amount of feed you are giving. This will be lengthening the time spent away from their friend (but at the same time something good is happening). You must remember that you should be reducing the amount of feed fed normally in the stable next to their friend by the amount given in the small feeds - it must be done incrementally. You must take care not to change in any way by weight or type the complete feed ration. When the horse is a little more relaxed about eating away from his friend you can also introduce some hay after the hard feed. Thus you will be slowly but surely be increasing the time spent away from each other.

Back to Basics on the Ground and Bonding

Eventually it should get better - but it could take a while so be prepared to be patient. At the same time as working on the separation at feeding times you must consider starting work on the ground. Now is the time to get back to basics with ground work. This will help you both in many ways. He will hopefully become more trusting of you and you will form a stronger bond between you. Initially lead the horse around yard outside the stable - but keep it all close by and within sight of the friend.

Reward

Once you start leading around, you can do a little groundwork. Ask for halts, and a couple of steps backwards or a turn and halt, or maybe if reversing doesn't go so well, a halt and walk on and halt again. This is where you are 'changing the subject' of his thoughts by changing the exercises regularly and making his brain think about something else.

Use what works for you and your horse. Give a small tit bit or treat when they respond - only one extremely small treat though and always remember, use your voice to reward. At the same time it is important to release any pressure you were using on the headcollar for the exercise you asked for - e.g. the halt or backwards stepping. Keep them busy with turning and halting etc. Use your imagination and aid your training at the same time

It might be a good idea to make up some sort of course to walk round. Cones or buckets and poles in the yard for instance could be made into some sort of route and obstacle course to work through, between and over. It is really important though that you remember to reward with your voice and a gentle pat - the positive association works in two ways here - both for training purposes as well as separation.

Obstacles and Safety Warning

Take great care with using obstacles and items on the ground if the horse tends to get really anxious and difficult to control. Having things dotted around in this situation could make it more hazardous and it could be very unsafe. Trying to hold a horse and keep it calm when it is becoming difficult and having poles underfoot has the makings of a disaster. Only start putting things out in the yard to work around when the horses seems to be improving and more relaxed.

Out of Sight Eventually

Depending on the horse/s, you should be able to lead the horse around the corner so that their friend is out of sight. This will of course be a very anxious moment for your horse so as soon as you feel him or her start to get tense, try one of you ground work exercises - halt and ask for three steps of back up. Don't forget to reward him though by releasing any pressure you have put on the halter etc as soon as he responds to your request. Initially of course you might only spend 10 or 15 seconds around the corner, but each time you do it you must try to keep calm and keep the horses attention focused on something other than being away from the friend.

Consider the Friend

Usually it is just one of the horses who is really suffering from the anxiety. Although the friend my also become worried when you take your horse away so may call and whinny in response. Remember therefore, that the friend must have something to do too - so have his hay net full during these exercises. It would be better to wait until the friend is actually eating the hay before removing your horse to 'around the corner'.

If the friends hay is on the floor of a stable it would mean the horse has to dip his head to eat and only when he comes up again would he see the horse gone. This would NOT be a good idea if the friend also suffers from high levels of separation anxiety, (he is likely to get more stressed and start calling too) so put the hay in a net at head level by the door so that he can see what is going on.

When to Reward & Timing

You will obviously have to continue to make the time out of site exercise regularly for a short time and then return the horse to his stable and friend. Take care when giving any treat that you give it immediately you START to feel it becoming anxious - if you leave it until it IS anxious you will be rewarding the anxious behaviour. The timing is vital. It is a very very fine line and a serious one to get wrong.

Extend the Groundwork

Once again when your horse is managing to cope with being out of site, you could consider using the poles and buckets or cones to negotiate to give the horse something else to think about.

Comfort Zone and Changing the Subject

You could eventually when things are going better, use a line of cones to bend or weave in and out of. I think of these changes of exercises as changing the subject as I mentioned earlier. If they are thinking of themselves and their stress, you must try to make them think of something else (change the subject).

He will be well out of his comfort zone right now so you must try to keep him occupied. Other exercises you could include in the ground work is to dot poles around to step over or to halt in front of or beside - two poles to walk through and halt between etc. etc. use your imagination and work out a good and interesting obstacle course. Use halts and maybe reverse a few steps or turns etc.

Timely Reminder

It is important to remind yourself about timing once again. Reward only when it seems right and only when you START to feel some anxiousness - never when he IS anxious or you are then rewarding him for becoming anxious. When you return him to his friend it will be returning him to his comfort zone - soon he will start to trust you more now that he knows that each time he returns to his friend after each separation period. If all goes reasonably well though you should try to extend the period spent out of site.

Remember any time you see the start of any anxiousness, ask for a halt and a few steps backwards or change of direction to give your horse something else to focus on. Reward ONLY when you feel it really necessary from now on.

Changing The Groundwork

Once your success rate is good (i.e. with being out of sight of the friend) you can start to do more and different exercises and work. At this stage you are still working on the ground with him. What sort of things you do will depend on your situation, what facilities you have available at your yard and the level training your horse has reached as well as your own experience and expertise. You might be able to start giving a hay net and grooming for a short time. He will associate the slight separation with a hay net and the attention you are providing with the grooming.

Tacking up

You should at some stage tack up - because this may well be a trigger for anxiety. Tack up and do this just before returning the horse to the stable and friend - then untack. You could if it felt right, extend the work to lunging. This would only be sensible if the horse was being sensible and accepting the separation thus far. Only do this if you feel it is safe. Never put yourself or your horse at risk. You should instinctively know when it is time to undertake the next step or steps like this.

Maybe you will just put the bridle initially, or just a saddle. Eventually you will be able to venture into the school to lunge (especially if the school is in view of the friends stable, then of course you must return to the stable. He will start eventually to associate tacking up and lunging with a return to the stable afterwards. It will take time but keep at it.

Firm but Fair

Be firm and don't let them walk all over you - they must show respect to you and your space. When things get difficult - change the things you are doing or the direction and bring in another exercise to distract him (i.e. 'change the subject'). Be firm though with your change, however you must remember that although you are being firm, it must at all times be kind - never be harsh.

Build up Trust

He must trust you. If you are unkind or less than kind even though you are being firm, you will lose any trust you have built up between you. Always be sure he can trust you to remove any pressure if he responds well to you asking him to do something he is unsure of.

How Long?

How long this all takes will as I said earlier depend on the level anxiety the horse is going through - I mean of course the level of separation anxiety the horse is suffering. It will also depend on you and how much time you have available to put into it.

How much time? & Keeping a diary of events

It is something you must aim to do every day of the week if possible until it improves. It might seem a long time but keeping a diary will help - this is one way you can really see the improvement too so it helps to keep you motivated. Note down each day what you did and how long it took etc. Make notes of what went well and what didn't go so well. Not only will you see the improvement but you will see the steps backwards you have had to take at times. The first time it happens will be very depressing but next time you will be able to look back and see how you overcame it.

Consistency

The important thing is to be consistent and not to give in. If you give him an inch he may well take a mile and this is not what you need. Remember, you must be firm but kind and patient.

The Comfort Zone

Be very aware that your horse has a comfort zone and you will be taking him outside of his comfort zone. It would be the same sort of thing that might happen to you if you were asked to do something which you really didn't like to do. You would need someone to be firm with you to enable you to overcome the anxiousness you felt. If they were unkind and harsh you would most probably feel worse about it. If they were kind at the same time as being firm you would be more likely to respond and have a go at doing whatever it is.

Once your horse is comfortable with some small separation, you can take it a step further. Now is the time to try having a go at putting the tack on when you separate them. Eventually he will become used to this too and accept it as part of the separation, it will become part of his comfort zone. This then is the time to start mounting when the tack is on and he is comfortable.

Continue when you are riding him with similar exercises to those you did before. If you feel him starting to become anxious - i.e. not wanting to do whatever you are asking - even when you are being firm, you should stop. Now ask firmly for a small circle or change of direction (a change of subject). It is vital now to remember to remove the pressure once the horse has completed whatever it is you asked of him - that is his reward and his trust in you will be reinforced.

Riding out

Once he accepts this mounted separation you might then be able to go out with friend on their horse for a quick ride - only a short one. You will have to find a very patient friend but it really will help. Offer to help the friend with something in return. Your horse must maintain his trust in you so maybe you will have to take it really slowly - it could be just up the drive and back to begin with - maybe 20 yards no more. When the anxiousness is less, you can gradually make these walks a little longer. Day by day you can increase the length of separation.

Changing the subject when riding

Remember that you should try to change the subject if things start to get problematical. Work on a little lateral work (forwards and sideways movements). Have some cones along the side of the drive to weave in and out of. On some days, instead of riding, you should revert to doing ground work again. Do not always take the same steps at this stage - variation will help. With patience and by taking it step by step it will improve, but it could take time.

Be firm, fair, kind and patient.

Paula Clements is Course Director with Lingfield Correspondence provider of equine home study courses. http://horse-care.co.uk As a member of the Lingfield Instructor Group Paula is one of 5 professionally qualified BHS riding instructor / coaches who produce equine home study courses. Paula's love of horses and genuine interest in helping people shines through when you contact her. Please drop her an email if you have any questions or queries about equine studies, are anxious or need help with a horse related problem of your own.
Check the web site today for value for money home study horse courses http://horse-care.co.uk/courses

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paula_Clements

Greasy Heel – Mud Fever
 
Greasy Heel/Mud fever is a common condition that affects horses living or working in wet, muddy conditions. The skin over the pasterns and heels becomes infected, resulting in scabby or weeping lesions which can be very painful.

Sometimes the infection extends to the skin further up the legs. White limbs are particularly susceptible. Mud fever is not a single disease but a collection of clinical signs associated with a number of different causes. Although very common, it appears in various forms and is not limited to horses that are literally paddling knee-deep in mud.
The condition can range from a mild skin irritation to very painful, infected sores. The disease can actually affect the whole body and is given different names depending on the part of the horse affected. When it occurs along the backs of horses that are kept outside without rugs, it is known as rain scald.

Greasy Heel is the term used to describe the condition when it involves the lower limbs, most commonly the back of the pastern and the heels, where it is seen as crusty scabs. The inflamed skin may discharge serum, causing the hair to matt, giving the coat a rough, un-groomed appearance. With severe cases, the skin at the back of the pastern may split open, producing deep horizontal cracks, commonly called cracked heels. Infection can enter these areas of damaged skin, resulting in a hot, swollen and painful leg and cause severe lameness. Firmly adherent scabs are found in the pastern and heel regions.

Greasy heel is also often confused Pastern Leukocytoclastic Vasculitis (PLV) an immune disease which is made worse by sunlight, contact dermatitis etc and occurs on white pasterns.

There are many treatments for Greasy Heal. It is recommended that you seek guidance from a vet if the condition does not respond to basic treatment. It has to be remembered that with any condition for which there are a large number of possible treatments, it is often because nothing is a guaranteed to succeed!

Basic Treatment

The affected area should be carefully clipped of excess hair, taking care not to traumatise the skin further. This may be done with clippers or a good pair of curved scissors.
Then use an antifungal wash as directed and use a soft brush or gently rub to remove as many of the unhealthy, crusty scabs as possible. Any lesion scabs should be collected and thrown in the bin, and you should use disposable gloves as the fungus can spread to other horses. Next, gently rinse and then blot the skin dry with clean, absorbent tissue or paper towels. Rubbing it with a towel will be painful for the horse and could cause further damage to the skin. If it is severe you may need your vet to help by sedating the horse and giving painkillers.

Article supplied via QLD Horse Council. View this factsheet online:- http://www.qldhorsecouncil.com/QHC%20Documents/Horse%20Health/Greasy%20Heel%20-%20Mud%20Fever.pdf

Provided by Cleveland Bay Horse Society of Australasia

The Cleveland Bay is a Warmblood horse, with its sire and dam having a recorded history dating back to the 16 th Century and into which the introduction of other bloodlines has been entirely excluded since 1884.

The Cleveland Bay is the last and only remaining Pure Breed of Warmblood horse left in the world today.

What, may you ask, is the basic genetic make-up of this Warmblood breed? The origins date back to the 16th century with 'base stock' being what was then known as the Chapman horse, a cold blooded horse already fixed in type, bay in colour, and which frequented the Cleveland District in Northern England. It was a very versatile horse, as much at home under saddle, or packing heavy loads to the nearest port. The blending of the hotblood came with the introduction of Barb and Andalusian stallions to the area, brought home by Officers of the armed services returning to their estates following the civil wars of the 1640's. By the 18th century there was no other infusion of alien blood and the Cleveland Bay emerged as an unmistakably fixed type. It was a stylish, powerful coach horse, the only horse capable of working land and carrying heavy men to hounds.

The English StudBook was established in 1884.

It is little wonder that this type of horse with its strength, quality and prepotency was in demand for export to other countries for use in their breeding programs.

Russian breeders in the Vladmire district imported a Cleveland Bay in 1887. The German stud at Celle between 1839 and 1889 had almost 50 Cleveland Bay and Yorkshire Coach horse (CB cross) stallions. In 1844 the stallion Astonishment was imported to Oldenberg. The Americans imported their first of the breed in 1853 and began their own studbook in 1889. Even to this day the Imperial household in Japan is still importing Cleveland Bays.

The first Cleveland Bays were imported to Australia in the late 1890's by Major Phillip Charley who was a very strong advocate of the Cleveland Bay, using its characteristic longevity and fertility, together with its natural ability for jumping, to improve his cavalry mounts. It was not until 1975 that the Australasian Cleveland Bay Society was formed and stud book records have been kept since that time. The introduction of Cleveland Bay blood to our local stock has produced horses for the competitive arenas in dressage to Grand Prix level, State representitives in jumping, driving and cross-country as well as horses for the pleasure industry and police force.

Here in Australia, consider the attributes required of our modern equestrian horse, that is, one with size, good bone, sound, nice even temperament and straight ground covering movement. Then consider the type of mare generally available in Australia for breeding, which is a high spirited, fine boned and generally smaller in stature animal. A blending with the qualities of the pre-potent Cleveland Bay offers the Australian breeding program, an excellent cross when aiming to produce an equestrian sporting horse.

Breed Standards for Pure-bred Cleveland Bays
(For the guidance of those interested in the breed)

HEIGHT- 16.0 hh to 16.2 hh, but height should not disqualify an otherwise good sort

COLOUR- Cleveland Bays must be bay with black points, ie. black legs, black mane and black tail. Grey hairs in mane and tail do not disqualify. They have long been recognised as a feature in certain strains of pure Cleveland blood. White,  beyond a very small star, is outside breed standards, but as from January 2005 may still be registered at the discretion of the Breed Committee and will be noted on the passport and in the Stud Book. Legs which are bay or red below the knees and hocks do not disqualify, but are faulty as to colour.

BODY- The body should be wide and deep. The back should not be too long, and should be strong with muscular loins. The shoulders should be sloping, deep and muscular. The quarters should be level, powerful, long and oval, the tail springing well from the quarters.

HEAD AND NECK- The head characteristics of the breed should be bold and not too small. It should be well carried on a long lean neck.

EYES- Eyes should be large, well set and kindly in expression

EARS- Ears tend to be large and fine.

THE LIMBS- Arms and thighs and second thighs should be muscular. The knees and hocks should be large and well closed. There should be 9" upwards of good flat bone below the knee measured at the narrowest point on a tight tape. The pasterns should be strong and sloping and not too long, The legs should be clear of superfluous hair and as clean and hard as possible.

THE FEET- One of the most important features of the breed. The feet must be of the best shape and blue in colour. Feet that are shallow or narrow are undesirable. "NO FOOT - NO HORSE".

ACTION- Action must be true, straight and free. High action is not characteristic of the breed. The Cleveland that moves well and which is full of courage will move freely from the shoulder, and will flex his knees and hocks sufficiently. The action required is free all round, gets over the ground, and fits the wear-and-tear qualities of the breed

To find your nearest Cleveland Bay Horse Society of Australasia branch, visit www.clevelandbays.com.au