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Horse Rugs - Rugging your Horse in Winter This article was written by Jane Myers MSc. Jane is the author of several books on horse and property care including Horse Safe, Managing Horses on Small Properties and co-author of the new edition of Horse Sense, all published by CSIRO (www.publish.csiro.au). Her website is www.equiculture.com.au
The previous article ‘to rug or not in summer’ discussed some of the pros and cons of rugging in summer and summarised by saying that you need to take several factors into consideration before deciding what to do. Some of the factors to take into consideration when deciding whether to rug your horse in winter include your local climate, your budget, the work the horse does, where the horse lives (in/out/both) and how much time you have available for checking the horse and grooming.
The unrugged horse A horse will roll in the mud and dust and build up a protective layer of dirt and oil (secreted by the skin). The horse will thrive as long as it has enough feed (mainly fibre) to keep warm and good shelter to get out of wet cold weather. Problems occur however when you want to ride. The horse may be muddy/dusty/wet etc. Another problem is when the horse has a long winter coat and the weather is very cold. If you ride in the afternoon the horse will sweat and may not dry in time for when it gets chilly in the evening. The horse will therefore be cold and wet over night.
In a warm climate it is quite possible to work an unrugged horse. It is in a cold climate that conditions become more difficult. As long as you avoid getting the horse too sweaty you can manage. If you want to start working the horse for longer and harder periods then you may have to think about rugging.
Rugs and the weatherIn cold weather good rugs can help the horse to maintain condition, as a cold horse will burn a lot of energy keeping warm. Cold driving rain is the worst kind of weather for horses and if the horse does not have adequate shelter from bad weather you will need to rug.
How many rugsThe coat of an unrugged horse stands up in cold weather to trap air and warm the horse. If you decide to rug you have to compensate for this mechanism as a rug will stop the hair from being able to do its job. In some circumstances a rugged horse is colder than an unrugged horse such as in the case of a badly fitting thin rug which will flatten the hair and reduce the movement of the horse without providing any real warmth.
The number of rugs needed obviously varies from state to state. Heavy canvas rugs can become a lot heavier when wet. More than one canvas rug at a time is not recommended for that reason. A better idea is to put lightweight doona type rugs under heavy canvas rugs if extra warmth is needed.
Checking a rugged horseHorses that wear rugs must be checked more frequently than horses without rugs, especially if they are out in a paddock. Rugs can get caught and/or slip and become dangerous to the horse. Twice a day, morning and night is recommended. Horses that wear anything on the head need to be checked even more frequently due to the danger involved with hoods and neck rugs.
Rugs and injuriesRugs can actually cause injuries to the horse. Common injuries caused by rugs include: - • Pressure sores behind the withers, this can be due to the rug being too large in the neck, which results in the rug sitting behind the withers. Every time the horse lowers its head it pulls the rug into the withers.• Pressure sores on the withers. Some high withered horses become sore from the sheer weight of the rugs.• Pressure sores at the base of the neck where it joins the chest. When this happens to a horse it will be very reluctant to move. If it does move it may move in ‘fairy steps’ around the paddock. Some horses get sore in this area even with a well fitting rug. A padded bib is needed under the rug. • Sores on the inside of the thigh form due to the rug slipping over to one side and the leg strap pulling up into the groin.• Sores under the belly from cross over surcingles and a badly fitting hood. If the fasteners for the hood do not have enough ‘give’ the surcingles pull tight under the belly as the horse reaches down to graze.• Horses can get caught up in fences and injure themselves by becoming hooked on a wire fence via their leg strap fasteners. Always clip them in toward the horse as this reduces the chance of this happening.• If any fasteners break, the rug will usually slip and the horse can panic with a rug that is half on and half off. Panicking horses tend to injure them selves on fences as they attempt to get away from the rug.• Hoods and neck rugs that slip can cause horrific injuries to a horse. Horses have been known to injure their eyes and even to drown in dams due to slipped hoods.
Leaking rugsRemove and check underneath rugs regularly. If a rug is letting in water the horse can develop rain scald and other skin problems.
Care of rugsWhenever rugs are removed, such as when the horse is being exercised, the rugs should be aired. Stable rugs need to be washed frequently as stabled horses have no choice but to lie in manure and urine. Washing heavy doona rugs can be a problem as they are usually too large for your own washing machine and public launderettes often ban horse rugs. Doona rugs can be hosed, scrubbed and hung out to dry when the weather is good.
A cotton rug under a doona rug acts like sheets on your bed. It is much easier to wash a cotton rug than a doona thus reducing the amount of times the doona needs to be washed. You will need two cotton rugs in this case so that you can keep changing and washing them. Some horses are sensitive to certain washing products. Baby products and wool wash are usually a good option with horse gear as they are gentle on the skin.
Heavy canvas rugs should be hosed and reproofed at the end of wet periods. Once or twice a year should be enough. Also, this is a good time to have any repairs done before storing them away for next year. Heavy canvas rugs should be hung when in storage rather than folded. Folding them can damage the fibres along the creases.
Always remember when taking a rug out of storage to give it a thorough check for spiders before putting it on the horse. With lined canvas rugs check between the lining and the canvas, as this is a favourite spot for spiders. Always wear gloves to do this to protect you.
Rugging a clipped horseHorses in moderate to heavy work programs are often clipped. The horse must be rugged well to replace the coat. A soft warm doona rug usually works well under a canvas rug in this case. A cotton doona is better than nylon as it allows the skin to breath. Just a lined canvas on bare skin tends to rub the horse and is not usually warm enough if the weather is cold.
Cooling a horse down with rugsIf your horse is still sweaty after work and you need to leave him for the night a really good method of safely cooling him down is to put either hay or straw under the rug (try to ‘thatch’ it so that it stays for a while). The horse can then be left (either indoors or outdoors) and the hay or straw will absorb the moisture and help to keep the rugs dry and the horse comfortable. The hay or straw will fall out from under the rug during the night.
Stabled horses and rugsThe stabled horse is not necessarily warmer that the outdoor horse. It depends on the stables and how many other horses are in the same building. Lots of horses give off lots of heat. A stabled horse is forced to stand still which can mean the horse becomes cold. It is a good idea to check your horse periodically to see if it is warm enough late at night.
Types of rugsHeavy canvas rugs, also called New Zealand rugs are suitable for horses kept outside during the winter months. These rugs are heavy duty and are often close to 100% waterproof if cared for properly. They must be well made to ensure best fit for the horse. It is not acceptable for the rug to be constantly hanging down one side of the horse. This type of rug is usually lined with either mixed fibres or pure wool. The latter is more expensive but warmer.
Synthetic outdoor rugs are alternatives to canvas New Zealand rugs and vary in quality. Basically you tend to get what you pay for with rugs. The advantage of synthetic is they weigh less and so are easier to put on large horses by small people. Their lighter weight is probably more comfortable for the horse as well. Many synthetic rugs now have a different cut to the neckline, which brings the rug about half way up the neck. This new cut reduces the pressure on the withers in comparison to a traditional style rug.
Quilted (doona) rugs are used for warmth and are usually made of nylon. However those made of cotton are considered better even though they are not as hardwearing. Cotton is much more comfortable in terms of heat regulation. The rugs can be used either on their own in the stable or under an unlined or lined canvas rug outdoors. Fleece rugs are lightweight warm and soft but are not particularly hardwearing. They usually cost less than doona type rugs however so this is another factor to consider.
This article was written by Jane Myers MSc. Jane is the author of several books on horse and property care including Horse Safe, Managing Horses on Small Properties and co-author of the new edition of Horse Sense, all published by CSIRO (www.publish.csiro.au). Her website is www.equiculture.com.au
Horses are crooked by nature. This means that they prefer using one side of their body over the other or they prefer moving in one direction over another. This is analogous to people having a natural preference for using their left hand or their right hand. The rider's job as the horse's trainer is to make the horse equally strong and equally flexible on both sides. When that happens, the horse is able to travel "straight."
Most competitions require horses to perform in both directions. This allows the judge to determine if the horse's physical development is equal on both sides and whether or not it can travel straight. Dressage tests and reining tests require movements that are mirror images of one another to demonstrate the horse's gymnastic ability (or lack of it) on both sides.
The term "straight" does not refer to a line such as an arena wall or fence. It refers to the positioning of the horse's body. The horse is "straight" when its hind feet track into the footfalls of its front feet. The inside hind foot steps in the same track as the inside front foot whether the horse is moving on a straight line or a curved line. This can be physically challenging for green horses. The rider/trainer uses various exercises to help the horse develop an equal amount of strength and flexibility on both sides of its body so that the horse is physically capable of moving "straight."
Before the rider can begin working on straightness the green horse must be:
- working in a steady rhythm in both directions; - working in a relaxed manner; - moving forward freely; - stepping into an elastic steady contact with the bit; and - carrying itself in balance. - Until the horse has mastered these initial steps on the training tree, it will not be able to achieve straightness.
To get the horse to travel straight, the rider needs to develop steady, elastic contact with the bit on the outside rein. There may be light contact on the inside rein to position the horse's head, but it is very light. The outside rein is the rein that directs the horse to be "straight" while the inside rein remains passive or has very light contact to position the horse's head to the inside of a bend.
Remember that the horse's power for forward motion comes from its hind end. To have a true outside rein connection the horse must engage the hindquarters and step into the outside rein contact. Simply taking or pulling on the outside rein is not a true outside rein connection. The rider must feel the horse seeking contact with the hand and catch the energy as the horse steps forward into the outside rein to make a true connection. This contact creates some weight in the rider's hand, like a firm handshake, but there should be no bracing or pulling. The contact has a soft yet heavy feel and the degree of weight the rider feels depends on the horse's training level. The more balanced or collected the horse is, the lighter the contact will feel.
Common problems that crop up when riders are working on straightening their horses include:
There is a loop in the outside rein. This usually means that the horse is not pushing off from the hindquarters and cannot step into contact with the outside rein. The rider may not be applying correct leg aids to encourage engagement of the hindquarters or the horse may not be responding to the aids.
The horse quickens and speeds up when you ask it to be more forward. This may be a balance problem or the horse may misunderstand the rider's leg aids.
The horse braces into the outside rein or pulls on the rein. Again, this may be a balance issue or it may reflect the horse's discomfort working in that direction until it develops sufficient strength or flexibility to carry itself in balance. Or the rider is hanging on the rein, trying to make the connection happen with the hand rather than engaging the horse's hindquarters and asking the horse to step into the hand.
Since the outside rein is the primary straightening rein, working on a circle where the horse is slightly bent to the inside (depending on the size of the circle) makes it easier for the rider to develop a connection on the outside rein. Riding circles and serpentines are two excellent exercises for straightening the horse.
Start asking for straightness on very large circles. The smaller the circle, the more difficult the job is physically for the horse on its weaker, less flexible side. So start with at least 20-meter circles. The horse and rider should be able to maintain straightness on a 20-meter circle before they attempt it on smaller circles. A ground person is helpful here to tell the rider whether the horse's inside hind foot is stepping into the track of the inside front foot.
The rider wants to feel an elastic, steady connection in the outside rein. Initially if a horse is very stiff in one direction, the rider may need to use the inside rein to gently position the horse's head to the inside. However, do not pull the horse's head and neck to the inside. On a circle, the horse's entire spine should bend along the circle's circumference. When the rider positions the horse's head and neck correctly, the eye on the inside of the circle will be barely visible. However, if the rider pulls the horse's head and neck to the inside, the line of the spine breaks and the rider loses the outside rein connection. The rider's goal is to collect and direct the forward energy coming from the hindquarters using the outside rein while using very light inside rein contact only as necessary to maintain the correct bend on the circle.
Serpentines, a series of linked half circles, are a more advanced exercise. Through several strides, the rider must make a smooth change to a new outside rein as the direction of travel changes. As the horse and rider finish one half circle and turn onto the centerline of the arena, the rider's eyes and torso turn to follow the new line of travel. The rider momentarily squares the shoulders and torso taking up contact on both reins and putting equal weight in both seat bones. Then, as the rider's eyes and torso again turn in the new line of travel along a new half circle, the shift in the position of the rider's shoulders and seat bones alerts the horse to the change of direction. As the rider continues using rhythmic leg aids to ask for forward motion, the horse now steps into the new outside rein and contact on the new inside rein lightens.
Straightening is an essential body building exercise for all horses that helps them develop equally on both sides. In the beginning, the horse's one-sided muscular development will present physical challenges. As the horse's muscles gradually become strong and flexible on both sides of its body, the horse will become more comfortable and the rider will be able to use the aids more subtly. Crooked, one-sided horses are more prone to lameness. The horse that travels straight stands a better chance of staying sound not only during the competition season but also throughout its lifetime.
© 2001-2010 Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre. All rights reserved.Faith Meredith has successfully trained and competed through FEI levels of dressage during her more than 30 years as a horse professional. She currently coaches riders in dressage, reining, and eventing in her capacity as the Director of Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre (147 Saddle Lane, Waverly, WV 26184; 800.679.2603; www.meredithmanor.edu), an ACCET accredited equestrian educational institution..
by Ron MeredithPresident, Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre
At some point in its training, something will startle or frighten an energetic, red blooded baby horse and he will rear or pull back or run sideways while the trainer is leading him. Or he may jump around just because he's young and he's feeling good. Or maybe he's challenging his trainer like he would another horse in the herd just to see who's who in the pecking order.
These things are actually the trainer's fault because they allowed the animal's attention to wander. Then an awful lot of trainers make a second mistake. To get the horse's attention back, they jerk the shank or yank the horse sideways or pop him with the end of the lead rope or they yell at him.
This is the "biggest, baddest wins" school of horse training. This method sometimes looks like it works. If the trainer really is the biggest, baddest one, they may get the horse to freeze and hesitate before they startle or rear or pull back the next time. But the horse hasn't really learned anything except that when they're frightened or startled, they're going to get attacked so they better watch out. That's not a lesson you can build on to teach the horse anything else.
The trainer intends these jerking or pulling or popping pressures as punishment for the horse's "disobedience." They think if the consequences of a particular behavior are bad enough, the horse will avoid that behavior. But it doesn't work that way. The horse feels shanking, jerking, yelling, or popping as an attack. So instead of shaping the behavior the trainer really wants, these things just accelerate the behavior they were trying to correct.
Most people are scared when a horse rears up. Their first reaction is to jerk on the lead rope or get out in front of the horse and pull on it. Pulling down on a horse's head gives the horse the feeling of being trapped. The fastest way to put a rearing horse over backwards is to keep pulling on his head because his natural tendency is to fight back against the pressure. Just the same, if you get out in front of a horse that's running back and start pulling on his head, the horse will just go backwards faster. You'll see horses running backwards with someone running right in front of them holding on to the rope and jerking. To the horse, this is a head on attack that just drives him back more. If it's a horse that's challenging you or unhappy for some reason and you get in front of him, he can get you with his left or right front foot or with his teeth.
The only really safe place to be around a horse is close enough to it so that it can't get any swing going with anything. That means at and right against the shoulder. When you work with a horse, you always work from the shoulder back and from the shoulder forward as you get to know the horse. When a horse rears as you are walking beside it, you want to stay as close to the shoulder as possible. The front feet are what will hurt you and if you can stay against the shoulder, there is no way the front feet, back feet, or teeth can get you. If you need to, grab a chunk of mane and pull yourself against the shoulder. You give the horse all the lead line it needs to go up.
The best way to deal with rearing or pulling is not to let them get started in the first place. You do that by keeping your attention on the horse and the horse's attention on you at all times. Every stride. Nobody's perfect, however. So if the horse does startle or pull back or rear, you just go about your business and put him right back to work. Don't attack or punish the horse for "being disobedient." Remember, there is no such thing as a disobedience if you're not directing the horse. That means you have to be telling the horse what TO DO and what NOT TO DO. Pulling or rearing or jumping sideways may be a lapse of obedience but when they happen, you simply interrupt them with instructions of what to BE doing. No punishment. No fight. No fuss.
Your primary objective in any training session whether you're working on the ground or from the saddle is rhythm and relaxation. What the horse needs is steady, physical work at a mental level that you have created which is alert enough and excited enough to pay attention to you but not frightened and not tense. He's just looking to have a good time, and that's what we're trying to teach him to do--how to have a good time playing our game. If he gets startled or frightened, you want him to come to you as the safe place to be. You want to be a person he can trust for some direction to get him past whatever is frightening or startling.
When you're working with a horse, pay attention to his ears because they'll tell you where his attention is and whether he's relaxed. Whether you're walking alongside him or up on his back, you want one or both of those ears swiveled in your direction to let you know you have his attention. If you don't, put him to work with some heeding or change what you're asking for under saddle just a little until he gives his attention back to you.
© 1997-2010 Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre. All rights reserved.Instructor and trainer Ron Meredith has refined his “horse logical” methods for communicating with equines over 40 years as a horse professional. He is president of Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre (147 Saddle Lane, Waverly, WV 26184; 800.679.2603; www.meredithmanor.edu), an ACCET accredited equestrian educational institution.
Ensuring that you select the right saddle for your horse is vital. It not only affects the position in which the rider will sit, and therefore can be beneficial in preventing back ache or muscle pain, but it also affects the horse. No responsible horse owner would want their steed to be in discomfort and pain and so choosing the best saddle is very important. There are companies available who will measure your horse and recommend the saddles that they think are most appropriate but as with most things this service costs money. I highly recommend this service as it ensures that you will not be causing any distress to your horse when you ride it.
Once the correct saddle has been purchased it is important to remember that positioning the saddle on the horse's back is also vital in ensuring your horse is comfortable when ridden. There are three main muscles in the horse's back which can be affected by the use of a badly positioned saddle. It is important to familiarize yourself with these and their locations before attempting to position the saddle on your horse. This will give you an idea of where the saddle needs to sit in order to be most comfortable for the horse.
In addition to the muscles which can be affected by the saddle you must remember that the saddle is positioned on the horse's back and so this can have an effect on the spine and its vertebrae. Remembering this should remind you of how important this lesson is and that you cannot afford to take risks with your horse if you want it to lead a long and painless life.
Firstly, place the saddle on the horse's back, forward of the wither. Once you have done this, slide it back along the back of the horse until it cannot comfortably go any further. This will vary dependent on the shape of the individual horse butthe lowest point of the saddle should correspond to the lowest point of the horse's back. If the saddle is in the correct position, the saddle tree will not be pressing on the scapula (the shoulder of the horse) but will rest in the natural grooves behind them. The most common mistake is to position the saddle too far forward and this then causes the saddle to press on the muscles in the scapula causing pain, impeding movement and creating the possibility of saddle sores.
Once you have learned how to position the saddle you will find it comes naturally after a time. It is worth taking the time to do it properly though if you wish to remain the owner of a healthy, happy horse.
About The Author: The author is a regular contributor to Saddle Advice http://www.saddleadvice.com where more information about saddles and saddle sources is freely available.
by Faith Meredith.Director, Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre.
There may be a few enthusiastic riders out there who look forward to the challenge of riding their horse through a fit of bucking or shying when they mount up. Most of us, however, would prefer that our horses never did either one while we are on their backs.
Whenever horses start behaving badly, we try to give them the benefit of the doubt. The horse that bucks may have a saddle or girth that’s pinching him uncomfortably. Or he may simply be high on life and feeling really good. The horse that shies may be hypersensitive to noise or reacting to the excitement of a windy day. Or he may be in need of a lot of patient “spook proofing” to build his confidence and recondition his responses to unfamiliar sights and sounds. The horse that backs full speed across the arena when his rider asks him to go forward may be trying to escape a severe bit or a rider’s unrelenting hands.
More often, however, behaviors like bucking, shying, standing up or that unrequested backing are the horse’s way of evading something the rider has asked him to do and that he understands perfectly well how to do. If the rider does not recognize what has happened and take measures to correct it immediately, the horse learns that evasion has its rewards. He doesn’t have to do whatever it was he didn’t want to do. Better yet, if he frightens his rider badly enough, the lesson may end altogether. What a deal!
In our training program, we take horses through four stages of learning. First we show them what we want them to do. When we’re sure that they understand what we are showing them, we begin to ask for it. When the horse consistently does what we ask, he has reached a level of sophistication where we can tell him what we want and expect to get the correct response every time. At this stage in the horse’s training, if he does not do what we tell him to do, we can enforce our request with stronger aids without upsetting his training program one bit.
If the horse bucks or backs because his equipment is hurting him, it would be unjust to enforce our request. However, if he’s bucking because he’s having a tantrum or shying at the barn cat out of high spirits and we fail to enforce our request, we reinforce the evasion. Today’s evasion quickly becomes tomorrow’s bad habit.
The best way to deal with an evasion is to ride the horse forward assertively. The idea is to channel the horse’s evasive energy into forward movement. The average rider finds this a scary thing to do when their horse is behaving badly, however. And if they don’t have an independent seat, they may not be capable of riding the horse forward assertively. Their fears allow the horse’s evasion to succeed and a bad habit gets started. Our students get a lot of experience riding horses like these when discouraged owners send their horses to Meredith Manor for “reform school.”
Upper level riders like a horse that’s bursting with energy because they can direct that energy into the horse’s work. Less skilled riders may want to make sure an energetic horse has plenty of turnout time during the day or at least before their riding sessions begin so the horse can spend its excess energy playing rather than evading. If your horse has developed a persistent evasion, you seek help from atrainer who can return him to ranks of solid citizens and improve your riding skills to build your confidence.
The best way to prevent the occasional evasion from turning into a regular bad habit is to keep the horse’s attention on you at all times. Attention is a learned habit for both the horse and the handler or rider. We start our young horses with a groundwork program we call heeding because its goal is to get the horse to pay complete attention to its handler at all times. At the same time, students learn to put their attention completely on their horse. If you are physically with your horse but mentally thinking about the what kind of pizza you want for dinner or what song you want to download from your computer, you are not paying attention to your horse. So why should he pay attention to you?
When you cultivate the habits of paying attention to your horse every moment you are with him on the ground and of bringing his attention back to you whenever it wanders, those habits carry over into your riding. To ride well, you must pay attention to every stride the horse takes, stride after stride. When you give your horse that level of attention, you start to automatically pick up on and correct those small losses of attention on the horse’s part that are the beginning of an evasion. Then a full blown evasion simply never happens.
Just like people, different horses will have different attention spans. Young horses have short attention spans just like young children. So their lessons should be short enough to end on a good note before they get too tired to pay attention any more. Some horses are more focused while others tend to get distracted easily. Developing concentration—both your own and that of your horse—is a skill that is just as important to good riding as developing balance or understanding the aids.
© 2001-2008 Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre. All rights reserved..Faith Meredith has successfully trained and competed through FEI levels of dressage during her more than 30 years as a horse professional. She currently coaches riders in dressage, reining, and eventing in her capacity as the Director of Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre (147 Saddle Lane, Waverly, WV 26184; 800.679.2603; www.meredithmanor.edu), an ACCET accredited equestrian educational institution.
The importance of equine dental care has long been neglected. In the horse world, in general, it is important to emphasize the importance of good horse mouth, teeth hygiene and maintenance.
So, what does an equine dentist do, and which horses could benefit from their practices? An experienced horse dentist would basically equilibrate a horse's teeth in various ways. Horses in the natural state do not usually require dentistry, the same as they do not require a furrier. Free-roaming horses eat a lot of hard plants with a high woody content, as well as grasses with silicates. These are abrasive substances, which wear down the incisors as the horse tears at the grass stalks. Hay-fed horses do not need to use their incisors in the same way, with the result that these do not get worn down and eventually get so long that the horse cannot close its mouth sufficiently to use the molars to grind its food.
All horses could benefit from the services of an equine dentist, although only a small proportion receives them. Even if your vet checks your horses teeth every half year, the chances are very high that there are points on the outside of the upper premolars and molars which are causing either constant discomfort or digging ulcerations in the cheeks. A thorough oral examination requires the use of a full-mouth speculum and a mild sedative or relaxant.
The most discerning owners tend to call in a specialized dentist as standard procedure, because it can improve a horse's performance dramatically and prolong active life for up to a decade. Better food uptake means better performance so in order to improve the horse's digestion regular dental work is a must. Surprisingly, a significant proportion of horses suffer from tooth maladies which can affect the way they take the bit. A tendency to resist turning in a particular direction is, for example, a strong indication that the horse has some kind of problem on that side of its mouth. The horse will surely act up especially if turning is uncomfortable. It may be simply a question of getting the bit to sit more comfortably to cause an immediate change in the behavior of the horse.
Many horses have persistent problems which cause uneven eating, distortions of facial muscle development and a build-up of pressure, which in turn can lead to constant headaches. Usually during the first session of dental treatment even under mild sedation, the effects can be dramatic and the horse experiences relief from this. Have you ever seen a horse smile?
Friction can arise between dental practitioners and standard vets, who have very different approaches to dental problems. Typically, a vet is called in to file down teeth when they become long, but tends to do so in a very uniform manner, which does not take into account the natural variations in the horse's own way of grinding, or the angles of the teeth necessary for comfortable eating. Incorrect filing can radically change the angle of impact and effectively prevent the horse from eating.
There is unfortunately no accredited certification program for equine dentistry through veterinary organizations. Ironically, only veterinary practitioners are legally empowered to practice equine dentistry, although many are not capable of the most basic form of it. Veterinarians usually work hand in hand with a specialized and trained lay-dentist or dentist assistant. The equine dentists themselves are a rare breed. Because of the problems they are up against in terms of training programs and chances to practice freely, they tend to be fierce animal lovers with a high commitment to their chosen profession and an almost evangelical passion to spread the word. There is a worldwide network of practitioners, who are in constant consultation for problem-solving and sharing new techniques and findings. A visit from and equine dentist can be as rewarding an experience for the owner as it is for the horse.
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